Hairdressing during the Renaissance: A Reflection of Culture and Fashion
01.07.2025The Renaissance was a time of great cultural upsurge that swept Europe from the 14th to the 16th centuries. Historians often focus on the painting, architecture, and literature of the period, but barbering is no less interesting. Renaissance hairstyles and haircuts didn’t simply follow fashion—they expressed the spirit of the times, reflecting status, regional traditions, and aesthetic ideals. This is especially evident in various European countries, where hair styling was an integral part of a person’s appearance. In this article, the barbers at our Brovary barbershop will discuss men’s haircuts during the Renaissance in Italy, Spain, and France.
Italy: The Beginning of the Renaissance and the Cult of Femininity in Men’s Haircuts
Italy became the cradle of the Renaissance. The cities of Florence, Rome, and Venice became centers not only of art but also of new fashion trends. Hairdressing reached particular heights here, becoming part of the city’s refined culture.
In Florence, voluminous, shoulder-length haircuts were particularly popular. These hairstyles had a characteristic ball shape—the hair was carefully curled with curlers and styled inward, creating a “flask” effect. They were complemented by short, straight bangs and a center parting. The “peasant” haircut was also popular—the hair was shortened, and thick bangs accentuated facial features and created a more sophisticated look. In Venice, fashionable headdresses—berets, hats, and fezzes—were often added to hairstyles. These accessories not only emphasized status but also became an essential element of one’s appearance. Beginning in the 1470s, facial hair became fashionable: curled sideburns, mustaches, and short beards reaching mid-ear. Beards were considered a symbol of maturity, and neatness and even color were expected—this was a matter of prestige.
Spain: Austerity, Status, and the Influence of Clothing on Men’s Hairstyles
In Spain, the Renaissance was characterized by a particular restraint and austerity. These qualities were also reflected in hairstyles. Due to the massive, high collars—raffas—long haircuts were not worn there, as they clashed with the formal attire.
The main trend was slicked-back or layered haircuts, which emphasized the facial structure. Curling the bangs into curls was especially popular, creating a soft yet disciplined look. In Spain, wigs were worn primarily by dandies, while the general population preferred simpler styles.
Commoners most often chose:
- The peasant cut—short hair with a straight, thick fringe;
- The bowl cut—a rounded shape, comfortable and easy to maintain;
- The straight-back combed hairstyle—a universal option for men of all classes.
This conservatism emphasized the austerity of the Spanish court, where appearance was strictly regulated and reflected respect for established order.
France: Italian Influence and Court Refinement
French fashion during the Renaissance was largely influenced by Italy, especially after Charles VIII’s invasion of Italian lands. Italian styles quickly penetrated the French court, where they were adapted and developed in their own unique way.
In the 16th century, the French court was renowned for its splendor and elegance. Hair was not only curled but also powdered, especially among older nobles and aristocrats. King Henry IV introduced short, permed haircuts with a well-groomed beard and mustache. This trend quickly spread among the nobility and cemented the style as a symbol of elegance and power.
An interesting case is that of King Francis I: after a head injury, doctors advised him to wear a very short haircut, later known as the “crew cut.” This fashion became widespread in the second half of the 16th century. At that time, the trend of tousling the hair with a comb also emerged, giving the hairstyle a casual yet refined look.
